IDEAS IN FOOD

Dehydrators

Just a quick note to let you know that over at Sante Magazine there's an article on dehydrators that not only mentions Ideas in Food, it features photographs and a recipe from us as well. In addition to our ideas, there are some great insights from Tony Maws and Tory Miller. Check it out, it's a definitely worth your perusal.

PS: Congratulations to Tony & Karolyn on the newest addition to the family! We wish you all the best!

Library of Cheese

One of the great things about buying cheese from Tomales Bay Foods is their Library of Cheese. It's a great resource, especially if you buy cheese the way we do. We buy whatever they tell us is good that particular day whether we're familiar with the cheeses or not. The library enables us to go and look up the background information when the cheese arrives. It's a font of information whether you are lucky enough to get your cheeses from them or not.

Lucky

When you are able and willing to work with individuals who are driven to produce perfection your own standards and results can improve dramatically.  Every day I am surrounded by marks of greatness; from Diane’s butter to Steve’s roes and guests staying with us to individuals who visit us visually through our website and push us towards excellence. I thrive off this interaction between individuals and ingredients.  Yesterday we were presented with an incredible challenge.  Steve, of blis caviar, has researched and developed a wild char roe.  The hoops he has jumped through to bring this ingredient to market are amazing, and we as chefs get to benefit.  The roe cured with just fleur de sel is nutty and rich, crisp, herbal and buttery.  He has also cured a small portion of the roe with smoked salt.  Over the past several years Steve has worked on applying the smoke with a deft hand so as not to lose the natural characteristics of the roe.  This morning, when we had the pleasure of sampling these two renditions of wild char roe, I experienced something different.  The char roe, larger than brook trout and smaller than salmon roe, golden in color and explosive in texture is better than any of the other roe’s Steve cures.  Think about the fact that Steve has stretched himself thin to raise the bar of perfect.  Now we are faced with the results.

The Source of Techniques: A Correction

I am lucky to have friends who read what we write.  I am even luckier that they openly and candidly correct my mistakes.  Recently I have gotten on a box about cooking potatoes with a method adopted by Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck.  I have adopted the technique and consequently encouraged many to buy his book with the recipe as well as many other interesting facts, techniques and ideas.  What I failed to mention and really absorb was Heston's inspiration was Jeffrey Steingarten the author of The Man Who Ate Everything.  I was forced, and now gladly so, to revist this incredible compendium of culinary tales and research which divulges the basic essence of the mashed potato technique as well as presenting a source for the initial concept--the instant dried potato industry.  Now, I am revisting Steingarten's work to see what other gems I mistook as coal.  Think about this, I read the book cover to cover seven years ago.  I did not pick up this technique.  I have wasted a fair amount of time because I was unable to see into the details.  Revist old favorites and ideas of yesterday with eyes and thoughts of today.  You never know what you will find.

Smaller is Better

From food to bookstores, smaller is better.  After spending too many hours searching for cookbooks on line and at large bookstores, I returned to the source for new cookbooks--Kitchen Arts and Letters.  The tiny storefront on Lexington Avenue not only has character and individuality, it has amazing cookbooks.  From the obscure to the seemingly ordinary, KA&L has the books and the story behind them.

The store and its staff focus on cooks and their books.  It is a hands on environment which lets chefs see what is going on around the country and the world in an intimate Manhattan storefront.

Oh and if you are not in Manhattan give a call, they will listen to your needs, virtually walk you through the store over the phone, and hand pick books to suit your needs or cookbook collection. 

And this all ties into food how?  Smaller is better.  Be determined to provide something great.  It does not have to be large or grand, just done well.

Arpege's Egg

In the hopes of making culinary leaps and bounds we decided to set slow cooked egg yolks in a smoked maple jelly topped with vanilla fleur de sel and surrounded with sweet cream. We tasted and thought brilliant!!! After digesting the dish we realized we just borrowed the flavors and tastes of Alain Passard's signature egg with maple and sherry vinegar. Well, the tastes, textures and aesthetic works well so we will continue to refine it. Pictures are in the "EGG" photo album.